Magdalene in Secret Places and Joy on the Seine

6/21/24

Bonjour!

I'm writing as we fly across the ocean back from Europe to the United States and on the most comfortable flight I've ever taken, just in a regular main cabin seat. There are several key items about the above statement that would have seemed impossible or unlikely in the past: “Flying” (it still amazes me), “comfortably” (need I elaborate?) and “trip to Europe” (in a year where I had to leap and believe the net would appear). Somehow, all of these “impossible” things are true. In honor of the power of possibility, I'll share a few key moments from this study-turned-leisure trip with my recently graduated 18 year old.

First I want to say this post is all about Paris alone and not the other places we visited because it would be too much to cover and we are fresh from Paris. Now that that's settled …

What I noticed most is what kind of traveler I am. I think I prefer surprises but like to plan enough to have something to look forward to. We had Louvre tickets, for example. And later an evening cruise on the Siene (recommended). But I also like to stay flexible and let inspiration strike. I wondered, who loves/loved Paris and whose understanding of Paris do I appreciate? Anthony Bourdain came to my mind. I looked up his thoughts. “Get lost” in Paris, he said. “The worst thing you can do is over plan.” Heard. Guide us Anthony…that was my invitation. We in fact didn't over plan. We even unplanned a little. And we got lost one time. Tense and tired as we were, we learned that you never know what you might find. We fell in love with the Metro (I even bought a Christmas ornament of the entrances which are often marked “Metropolitain” in wildly retro and ornate Bohemian lettering).

As a traveler I want to know about where I'm staying. When we arrived I noticed (impossible not to) there was this massive historical building across from the hotel, so big it occupied a whole city block. I thought it must be some sort of government hall. I didn't love the way it looked (imposing Roman colonnade) compared to most ornate Paris fixtures but I enjoyed our balcony-like window in our room gazing out at the street below and the dancing tree outside of the window as well. Having such a large building across from us cut down on the traffic noise . Laying down next to that window with my feet propped up and a breeze filling the sheer curtain, I watched clouds scroll past the bright blue backdrop for quite awhile. I want to know what it feels like to love a place and anticipate the rest of the time there. No rushing off for a patisserie just yet. Lingering is a thing I value. I wondered about visiting the church but noticed that it was closed for some reason. I never gave it much of another thought other than wondering more about it.

Next I read about Place de la Madeleine - the name for the area in which we stayed. In August of 1843 a “phenomenon” took place right where we found ourselves. Tens of thousands of butterflies appeared. All different colors and types. This caused utter chaos as they covered everything indoors and out. The next day they were gone. I decided to pay attention - closely - to messages which might bring deeper personal intersection with this information about our little corner in Paris.

An original intent of the trip to France was to lead a pilgrimage to Mary Magdalene sites as a participant/organizer, not an expert. I was planning to rely on the expertise of others but eventually decided it was too much to try and organize a pilgrimage to the South of France for key MM sites.

Instead, it appears that lesser known, hidden MM sites found me. As I'm writing this, I had to pause because I wanted to look up a little more information on the L’Eglise de La Madeleine which I was so quickly brushing off as “too Roman” and imposing to be interesting on its own. Writing to you about the butterflies seemed incomplete without knowing whether there was any possible spiritual intersection with something about this church or neighborhood that I might have overlooked. I'm still processing my sense of awe at what I discovered.

I've just found that the building itself has a history of changing hands and intentions many times throughout power shifts (and you can read more about L’Eglise de la Madeleine with a simple search). This shifting identity all reminds me of the story of Mary Magdalene herself, who seems to have been divided up into pieces in scripture and co-opted by patriarchy. Today, after interrupting my own writing of this post and researching the church more carefully I am amazed to tell you that I stayed across the street and in a neighborhood dedicated as a shrine to Mary Magdalene and didn't know it. Encroyable. I didn't go in the church and I didn't see the incredible statue at the altar - a statue not of Jesus, but of Mary Magdalene and a host of Angels at the center.

(iStock photo)

In fact, the building was finally consecrated as a church in 1842 after having no clear path to identity for many, many eras. In 1843 the church celebrated its first full year as a church dedicated to Mary Magdalene whom it was felt would intercede for the oppressive sins necessitating the revolution. I didn't recall that ‘Madeleine” was a name often associated with Mary Magdalene.

On July 24th 1843, the first anniversary feast day was little more than a fortnight past when the butterflies descended upon Madeleine place. I researched this myself and put it all together. For the first time in the history of this growing locale in Paris, one which was many times planned as a shrine to war or power, the names of Mary Magdalene and Liberté were honored as central identities. I would not suspect it to be a place where I would find her. How characteristic.

Mary Magdalene of the Butterflies- Tanya Torres

The Magdalene is always hiding and showing up in surprising, secret places. Even problematic ones. Even when she is misunderstood.

This is a delightful, awe inspiring and unfolding revelation. What are the odds that, as I was taking in the original information about the “papillon phenomenon (term my own),” I was watching a scene in a lovely show in which butterflies are released as a surprise celebration in juxtaposition with the protagonist being loved for her full identity? Seriously.

I am choosing to feel no regret that I did not go inside but instead wonder that the trip continues to unfold for me. I choose to believe that there are more hidden surprises throughout my time in Paris. After all, I wound up in an underground Knights Templar cave (widely known to be guardians of all things Mary Magdalene) when all I sought was a jazz club:

Taken at Caveau de la Huchette

Here is one more vignette from our trip that seems to have the same theme:

In Paris there's a lot of dreamy fantasy to live up to - but when you find the perfect patisserie you might not be hungry. You may be too tired to stroll in that one neighborhood. And the decision to take the highly recommended dinner cruise on the Seine may be at the expense of a better meal somewhere else. Expectations and spending don't always pay off or make us feel connected to actual people or meaning. So here's where I share the favorite moment in Paris with a few photos to accompany: The Seine was lined with happy people sitting together with a bottle of wine and/or bag meal all along the river wall. We were in what felt like a stuffy moving dining hall (later, up on the rooftop of the boat watching the Eiffel tower go by that feeling would disappear). The vibe was confusing despite the view. Yet, here were my kind of people lining the river. I felt my true self break through the atmosphere and began to snap images of them as we floated by. They were taking pictures of us. I suddenly broke into waving and they loved it!! One couple, then a group and then a single Seine-dweller leapt at the chance to wave back. Sometimes all their hands went up enthusiastically or formed heart-shapes. Huge smiles exploded. My heart sang. What is it about this circumstance (as opposed to walking past each other in the street) that allowed me the opportunity to essentially love so many strangers? I can't say other tables were doing this, but we kept at it. It never got old.

Muriel and I chatted about why this was so fulfilling. Being somewhere new added to it - Paris? Yes, that too. But also we decided that enough outside vulnerability was removed in this situation to actually be vulnerable in a different way. Paris is a place, and we noticed this clearly, where people are intent on joy.

Papillon phenomenon, joyful river people, what else could I bring to you?

Maybe more later. But I appreciate you traveling with and through me. I've traveled through others many times, and I'm starting to understand that we all see the world in different ways. I'm glad you can enjoy my emerging experience of Paris.

(Image of me taken by Muriel holding flowers I purchased next to the church at an historic flower market and looking at L'Eglise de la Madeleine before I knew).

All photos mine unless otherwise noted.